Leave the middle two alone as they attach the guides for the springs of the strum bar.Īfter this, it’s a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure, as what you do next really depends on what’s wrong with the strum bar. Next there’s four Philips-head #1 screws to remove to get the circuit board that contains the actual clicky-switches away from the strum bar itself. Once they’re all out, you can gently separate the front of the guitar where all the electronics live from the back of it.
This can be done by just getting a fingernail or a flathead screwdriver underneath either of the top bits of the body, pointed to with a arrow here, and gently prying it away from around the edges.Īfter that, there’s twelve Torx T9 screws to remove, circled in red, and another four Philips-head #0 ones, marked in green.
Tools needed for disassemblyįirstly the neck needs to be removed, and the “Lock” button at the back towards the base of the guitar set to its unlocked position.
#GUITAR HERO WORLD TOUR GUITAR STRMMER REPAIR HOW TO#
I figured I’d pull it apart today and see what was up, and thanks to this guide I figured it out, and am documenting it here for posterity (my problem wasn’t one of the ones described in that guide, but it was very handy to see how to disassemble the thing in the first place). It was an excellent time except that my Guitar Hero World Tour guitar had stopped registering downward strums, and only upwards strums worked. Kristina and I had a date night last night in which we ate trashy food and then took the Xbox 360 out of storage and fired up Guitar Hero: Warriors of Rock.
0 kommentar(er)
